The EV guide to PDRN skincare

Polynucleotides have had quite the moment, with everyone from Jennifer Aniston to Kim Kardashian raving about their youth-boosting benefits. With Google searches for the procedure increasing by over 1,500 per cent in recent years, it’s little wonder that it’s one of the fastest growing aesthetic treatments of the past five years.
 
Now the active is showing up in skincare, promising similar skin-transforming benefits, all without the use of a needle. But before you swap your in-clinic appointment for a polynucleotide-packed serum, here's what you should know.

What are polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides (PNs) are long chains of purified DNA fragments from salmon or trout gonads. Injected into the skin, they stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, activate receptors that calm inflammation and support the skin's own repair mechanisms. This results in increased hydration, improved texture, more elasticity and a major boost in skin quality that looks completely natural. There's no added volume or freezing of expression, just healthier, more resilient skin.

A polynucleotide treatment involves a series of injections (or the use of a cannula) into the dermis (the deep layer where fibroblasts and collagen reside), typically across two to three sessions spaced a month apart. Because the active is delivered directly where it needs to work, results show a statistically significant improvement in skin texture, wrinkle reduction and elasticity, according to a 2025 systematic review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
 

PDRN explained

Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is related to polynucleotides, but they are not the same thing. Where polynucleotides are long, high molecular weight DNA chains, PDRN consists of shorter DNA fragments with a lower molecular weight. Originally developed for medical use—think wound healing, tissue regeneration and diabetic ulcers—it found its way into aesthetics, where it's valued for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties.

The reason these ‘polynucleotide’ skincare buys contain PDRN rather than full polynucleotides, comes down to one thing: size. Full polynucleotides are too large to penetrate the skin barrier effectively when applied topically. PDRN's shorter fragments have a better chance, though some argue that even then, penetration is limited, and this is where the gap between injectable and topical delivery becomes significant.

What PDRN skincare can do

Used consistently, PDRN skincare can meaningfully improve hydration, reduce surface inflammation, support the skin's repair processes and offer gentle anti-ageing benefits through collagen stimulation. For sensitive, reactive or compromised skin it's particularly useful thanks to its low irritation factor, and ability to nourish and calm without the dryness or redness that stronger actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids can trigger.

Results are real but not identical to what can be achieved via polynucleotide injections. However, when you factor in that you can access PDRN skincare for a fraction of the price, you don’t need to inject the face and you avoid any downtime, its not surprising that this new category of skincare is becoming increasingly popular.

Formulation matters 

Like all beauty buys, not all PDRN skincare is made equal. Nano-encapsulation technology, which packages PDRN into tiny lipid-based carriers, improves penetration considerably, getting the active closer to where it can have real impact. Serums tend to outperform creams thanks to their lighter formulations and smaller molecule sizes. And how much of the stuff your chosen formulation has is important too, so aim for a one per cent concentration or above.

Spicule-based formulations are another option worth knowing about. Tiny needle-like structures derived from marine sponges, spicules create microscopic channels in the skin, allowing PDRN to penetrate far deeper than it could on an intact skin barrier. Think of them as nature's answer to microneedling, without the clinic visit.

Who benefits most from PDRN skincare

Pretty much anyone looking to improve skin quality will benefit from PDRN skincare, and for those already having polynucleotide treatments, it's particularly effective used before a course of injectables to prime the skin, or afterwards to support recovery and calm inflammation.

Does the source matter?

For vegans or those with fish allergies, plant-based PDRN (most commonly ginseng-derived) can be a good alternative. Early research shows promise for skin regeneration and barrier support, and while most studies focus on salmon and trout-derived PDRN, botanical options are increasingly viable.
 

Worth the switch?

Topical PDRN is not a substitute for injectable polynucleotides, as injectables deliver concentrations at a depth that no serum can match. But PDRN skincare is far from pointless, it can help keep your skin in its best condition between treatments, and is a worthwhile first step for anyone not yet ready for the injectable route.