7 ways to troubleshoot sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is a common concern. A recent study by pharmaceutical company Galderma shows that sensitive skin affects 70 per cent of people worldwide, with cases rising by 68 per cent in the last two decades.

Anyone can develop sensitive skin as a result of genetics, a weakened skin barrier, underlying skin conditions, hormonal changes and lifestyle factors. Modern living is also a huge factor: the study revealed that people with sensitive skin who lived in an urban environment exhibited nearly three times more inflammation—a 16 per cent increase in oxidative stress and stress-induced sebum production (which can trigger skin outbreaks) was also higher. Women with sensitive skin had more pores, uneven skin tone, dark spots and age spots, compared to non-sensitive skins.

"It doesn't surprise me that living or working in a city isn't great for your skin,” says Amish Patel, BEM, Aesthetics Practitioner & Skincare Expert at Intrigue Cosmetic Clinic. “You only have to cleanse your face at night to see the dirt and grime that comes off.

"Pollution from cars, the daily commute and other toxins in the air can impact your skin in a variety of ways. If you’ve got sensitive skin, this can cause redness, itching, outbreaks, rashes, dryness and burning sensations. City dwellers are also often more active in their social lives, which can lead to less sleep and an unhealthier lifestyle than those living in quieter, more rural areas.”

Strengthen your skin barrier

Your skin barrier acts like a protective shield, to keep harmful toxins out and help retain sufficient water for moisturised, smooth and hydrated skin. It also contains immune cells to keep skin healthy.  “If you’re in an urban environment, there’s more exposure to toxins,” says Gemma Clare, Holistic Skin and Wellbeing Expert. “If your skin barrier is weak and compromised, your skin will be more sensitive and reactive.  Dryness and extreme dehydration are also tell-tale signs. To strengthen the skin barrier, you need to rebuild its health, slowly and over time.”  

Sensitive skincare

 “Always choose natural actives and avoid anything that contains artificial fragrances, colours, parabens, phthalates and mineral oils. You want products that calm, soothe and heal skin from within and not just mimic a false barrier,” says Clare, who recommends:

• Alumier MD Sensicalm Cleanser is formulated with ceramides, vitamin E, niacinamide (B3), aloe vera and sunflower seed oil, to restore the skin’s natural barrier and reduce irritation.   
• SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 contains 2% pure ceramides, 4% natural cholesterol and 2% fatty acids to help restore, hydrate and protect the skin barrier.
• Hypo 21 Purifying Skin Spray contains hypochlorous acid which is ideal for calming irritated, red, sensitive skin as it mimics the body's own immune molecule. It can also help with skin conditions such as eczema and contact dermatitis.

In clinic solutions

“A skin booster facial for sensitive skin can help calm inflammation and strengthen the skin from within,” says Patel. “But, it's crucial to choose the right type. So, this is something to discuss with your aesthetics practitioner as part of a treatment plan.”

Tackle underlying issues

If you suffer from a skin condition such as eczema, your skin barrier is compromised and doesn’t function as effectively. While there is often a genetic component to eczema, a weak skin barrier can lead to more dryness, itching and irritation. “Skin issues are often a reflection of what’s going on within your body,” says Clare. “For example, if you have gut or digestive issues, or your elimination pathways are not working as well as they should be, this will also affect your skin. So, it might be an idea to consider functional medicine testing to see what else is going on.

The effects of pollution

“Urban dwellers should adopt a proactive, protective skincare strategy as environmental pollutants can cause sensitivity—particulate matter and other elements in pollution activate a receptor in the skin which triggers inflammatory signals known as cytokines. This inflammatory response compromises the skin barrier, increases transepidermal water loss, and triggers sensory nerve fibre sensitivity," says Dr Emmaline Ashley, Cosmetic Physician and Founder of Ashley Aesthetics, who advises:

• Double cleansing every evening to remove surface pollutants and particulate matter that accumulate throughout the day.
• Applying a broad-spectrum antioxidant serum morning and evening to neutralise free radicals before they cause damage.
• Using SPF 50+ daily, even on cloudy days, as UV exposure compounds pollution-induced oxidative stress.
• Considering using an air purifier at home to reduce indoor particulate exposure, especially in bedrooms.
• Making sure you get enough sleep and learn to manage stress better. 

Protect skin from oxidative stress

“If you're looking to protect your skin, assessing your diet is an important first step,” says Patel. “Cut down on sugar and alcohol, drink more water, and include plenty of antioxidant-rich, colourful fruits and vegetables in your diet. These simple steps can dramatically improve your skin and boost your antioxidant intake to protect against pollutants.”

SkinBetter Science Alto Defense Serum combines vitamins C and E with 17 additional antioxidants including polyphenol-rich natural ingredients (acai, turmeric, cocoa, green tea, grape seed, olive), a targeted anti-pollution complex (against UV, blue light and pollutants) and skin-soothing ingredients, including licorice extract, to reduce redness. Alternatively, ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense is a potent antioxidant serum containing vitamins A and E which supports the skin natural repair process.

Reduce inflammation

“Anti-inflammatory strategies should target multiple pathways,” says Dr Ashley, who recommends the following tactics:

• When choosing skincare, look out for anti-inflammatory ingredients such as niacinamide, centella asiatica, green tea extract, hypochlorous acid and azelaic acid.  
• In clinic treatments such as LED therapy (particularly red and near-infrared wavelengths) can reduce inflammation without irritating sensitive skin. 
• Gentle facials focusing on calming rather than active ingredients are also beneficial.  
• Following an anti-inflammatory diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids (oily fish, flaxseed) and low in processed foods, can also help to reduce systemic inflammation within the body.